How to Sew A Shirt: Step By Step Guide for Beginners and Experts

When there were no machines, people used to sew clothes with needle and thread, but the invention of sewing machines revolutionized the process, making it faster and more efficient. Now sewing your own shirt with machines is a fun and rewarding process that allows you to create something custom, practical, and stylish. Whether you’re a beginner looking for your first sewing project or an experienced seamstress refining your skills, this guide will teach you how to sew a shirt from scratch. By following these simple steps and applying sewing techniques, you will master shirt-making in no time.

Table of Contents

How to Sew a Shirt: A Simple Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners and Experts

1. Creating the Perfect Pattern

A shirt pattern is the foundation of your sewing project. The first step in learning how to sew a shirt is to create or use a shirt pattern that fits well. A pattern helps you avoid mistakes and ensures your shirt has a professional finish.

Find A Shirt That Fits Well

To begin making a shirt, select a shirt from your wardrobe that fits well. This shirt will act as the base for your pattern. Make sure it’s clean and wrinkle-free to ensure accurate measurements.

Fold the Shirt in Half

Lay the shirt flat on a surface and fold it in half lengthwise. This ensures symmetry when tracing the pattern. Smooth out any wrinkles before you start marking.

Pin Back Outline

Secure the shirt’s back outline with pins along the seams.

This will help hold the shirt in place while you trace the pattern onto the fabric. Make sure to focus on the neckline, shoulders, and sides.

Measure and Trace the Shirt Pattern

Using a tape measure, measure from the collar edge down the back of the shirt.

Then, measure across the chest and sides to define the front and back pieces of the pattern. Trace the outline carefully using a pencil and tracing paper.

Pin Along the Front Outline

For a clean finish and proper stitching, add at least 5/8 inch around the pattern pieces for seam allowances. This ensures enough room for joining the pieces together during sewing.

Mark the Pattern Pieces

Once traced, label each part of the pattern, such as “back,” “front,” and “sleeve,” to avoid confusion later when cutting the fabric.

Pin and Trace Around the Sleeve

Remove a sleeve and lay it flat to trace. Take note of any pleats or gathers that need to be replicated.

Add Seam Allowances to Each Piece

Add at least 5/8 inch around all sides of the pieces for seam allowances unless you plan to use a serger, which requires less.

Mark the Pieces

Label each part of your pattern pieces – back, front right, front left, and sleeve – to avoid confusion during cutting and sewing.

Cut and Match the Pieces

Carefully cut out your pattern pieces and cross-check them against each other to ensure they’ll line up when sewn.

2. Preparing the Material

Once your shirt pattern is ready, the next step is choosing the right fabric and cutting out the pieces. This part is essential in making a shirt that fits well and has a nice drape.

Choose the Right Fabric for Your Shirt

When it comes to fabric, cotton is a popular and beginner-friendly choice for shirts. It’s versatile, breathable, and easy to sew. For a shirt that holds its shape, choose a medium-weight cotton or a fabric with a simple weave. Consider fabric textures like chambray, flannel, or linen for a unique touch.

Pre-Wash the Fabric

Before you begin cutting the fabric, wash and dry it to pre-shrink it. This will prevent the shirt from changing size after the first wash, helping maintain its shape and fit.

Cut Out the Pattern Pieces

Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric, pin them in place, and carefully cut out each section. Make sure to follow the notches and darts marked on your pattern. Cutting accurately is crucial for ensuring the shirt pieces fit together perfectly.

3. Preparing the Collar Ribbing for Your Shirt

The collar adds structure to your shirt. If you’re new to sewing, you might want to try ribbing for the collar, as it’s stretchy and easy to work with.

Cut the Ribbing for the Collar

Measure the circumference of the neckline and cut the length of the ribbing accordingly. Ribbing is a durable fabric that gives the shirt collar a neat, and comfortable fit.

Fold and Press the Ribbing

To sew the shirt collar, fold the ribbing lengthwise with the wrong sides together and press with an iron. This step ensures the ribbing will stay in place as you attach it to the neckline.

Fold the ribbing in half with the wrong sides together.
Place the folded edge along the raw edge of your fabric.
Pin or clip the ribbing to keep it in place.
Sew along the raw edges, using a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch to secure the ribbing to your fabric.

Sew the Ribbing to the Neckline

Pin the folded ribbing along the neckline and sew it in place using a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch. Stretch the ribbing gently while sewing, making sure the shirt fabric doesn’t stretch or distort.

Use a sewing machine or hand-sew the ribbing together with a straight stitch.
Make sure to line up the edges of the ribbing evenly before stitching.
Trim any excess fabric and press open the seam for a clean finish.
Fold the loop in half, with the wrong sides facing each other, and press to create a centre crease.

4. Sewing the Shirt Together

With all your fabric pieces prepared and your collar ready, it’s time to start sewing the shirt together. This is where the magic happens.

Pin the Body Pieces Together

Pin the front and back body pieces at the shoulders, ensuring the right sides of the fabric are facing each other.

Sew the Shoulders Seams

Sew the shoulder seams using a straight stitch, making sure to align the edges properly. This creates the foundation of your shirt.

Begin by aligning the shoulder seams of the front and back pieces with the right sides together.
Pin or use fabric clips to secure the two pieces in place.
Sew using a straight stitch, starting at one end and ending at the other.
Use a seam allowance of ⅝ inch (1.6 cm) unless specified in your pattern instructions.

Pin the Ribbing to the Neckline

Match the edges of the ribbing to the neckline, stretching slightly and evenly to fit, and pin securely.

Use a ruler to measure the neckline length and cut the ribbing accordingly.
Fold the ribbing in half lengthwise and press with an iron.
Pin one end of the ribbing to the center back neck position on the fabric, aligning it with the raw edge.
Begin pinning from one side, slightly stretching the ribbing as you go, and pinning it to the fabric next to the neckline edge.
Continue pinning all around the neckline, evenly distributing any excess fabric.
When you reach the end, overlap the edges of the ribbing by about 1 inch and cut off any extra length.

Stitch the Ribbing

Sew the ribbing to the neckline, ensuring to stretch the ribbing, not the shirt material, as you go.

Align the ribbing along the neckline with the right sides together.
Pin or use clips to hold the ribbing in place.
Start sewing at one shoulder seam and work your way around the neckline.
Use a stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch to secure the ribbing.

Pin the Sleeves to the Armholes

Pin the sleeves to the armholes, aligning the top of the sleeve with the shoulder seam. Sew the sleeves to the shirt, easing in any excess fabric to ensure a smooth fit.

Ensure the shoulder seam lines up with the shoulder seam of the garment.
Pin from the top of the sleeve down to the bottom, easing in any excess fabric as you go.
Repeat this process for both sleeves.
Once all pins are in place, try on the garment to check for proper fit and adjust as needed.

Sew the Sleeves

Next, stitch down both sides of the shirt, starting at the sleeve cuffs and working your way down to the hem. Use straight stitches for a clean, professional look.

Be sure to match the sleeve’s underarm seam with the shirt’s side seam.
Ease any excess fabric along the sleeve cap to prevent bunching.
Use pins or clips to secure the sleeve in place before sewing.
Sew from the top edge down towards the cuff, careful not to catch any other garment parts in the stitching.
Press the seam allowance towards the sleeve once it is sewn in place.
Finish the raw edges of the sleeve with a serger or zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
Try on the garment before finishing the sleeves to check for proper fit and adjust as needed.

Stitch Down Both Sides

Start at the sleeve cuff, stitch down to the hem of the shirt, connecting the front and back pieces together.

First, the shirt’s pieces should be aligned to ensure symmetry and proper sewing.
Ensure you have the correct stitch length and width on your sewing machine before starting.
Use pins or clips to hold the fabric in place while stitching.
Start at the sleeve cuff and stitch down towards the hem, making sure to stay as close to the edge of the fabric as possible.
Use backstitching at the beginning and end of your seam to secure it in place.
Repeat this process on both sides of the shirt, making sure to line up the front and back pieces correctly.
After stitching down both sides, trim any excess threads and give the shirt a final press with an iron. This will help create a hard, proficient appearance.
If desired, you can also finish the raw edges of the seam with a serger or zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
Make any necessary adjustments to ensure that the shirt fits properly before moving on to the next step in your sewing project.
Once you have completed stitching down both sides, you can move on to hemming the bottom of the shirt. This can be completed with a simple double-fold or rolled hem for a more elegant finish.

5. Finishing the Shirt: Hemming and Pressing

Once the shirt is assembled, you’ll need to finish the raw edges and give it a polished look.

Fold and Sew a Bottom Hem

Fold the bottom edge of the shirt twice to hide the raw fabric edges. Use a straight stitch to secure the hem in place, and make sure to backstitch at both ends for durability.

Preparing your shirt for hemming:

- Start by placing your shirt flat on a fresh, flat surface.
- Flat out any wrinkles or folds in the fabric.
- Make sure all seams are aligned and straight.
- If needed, iron the bottom edge of the shirt to create a crisp fold line.
Measuring and marking your hemline:
- Decide on the desired length of your shirt.
- Measure and mark this length from the bottom edge of the shirt.
- Use a ruler or determining tape to confirm correctness.
- Folding and pinning:
- Fold up the bottom edge of the shirt by the desired hem length.
- Pin in place along the hemline, ensuring the fabric is flat and smooth.
- Double-check for any wrinkles or uneven edges before sewing.
Sewing the hem:
- Using a straight stitch, sew close to the folded edge of the hemline.
- Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the stitches in place.
- Remove pins as you sew.
- Tips for a professional

Bonus: How to Sew a Shirt Collar

Fold and Sew Sleeve Hems

Repeat the hemming process on the sleeves. Pin the fabric in place, fold it up, and sew along the edge for a clean finish.

Ensure that the sleeve hem is straight and even before folding.
Use pins to safe the doubled edges in place.
Adjust the fold width according to your desired hem width.
Press the folded edge with an iron for a crisp finish.
Sew along the edge of the fold, making sure to backstitch at both ends for durability.
Trim any excess threads and remove the pins after sewing.
Repeat on both sleeves for a uniform look.

Iron the Seams

To complete your shirt, press all the seams with an iron. This will help shape the fabric and give it a professional, polished appearance. Make sure to press both sides for the best result.

Start by pressing a clean cloth over the seam to protect the fabric from direct heat.
Use the appropriate heat setting on your iron based on the type of fabric you are working with.
Hold the iron over the seam and press down firmly, moving in a back-and-forth motion along the entire seam length.
Be careful not to stretch the fabric while pressing, as this can cause uneven seams and affect the overall fit of the shirt.
If there are any stubborn wrinkles or creases, use a steam setting on your iron or spray some water onto the seam before pressing again.
Once all seams have been pressed, turn the shirt inside out and press from the wrong side.

Try On the Shirt

Before finishing, try on the shirt to check for fit and comfort. Adjust the sleeve length or collar as needed. Check that the shirt fits comfortably and allows for easy movement. You can also sew two or four buttons on your shirt if you want to adjust the fit, add a stylish detail, or replace missing buttons.

Make sure the shirt is the right size and fits comfortably
Check that the sleeves are not too long or too short
Adjust any buttons if they feel tight or loose
Move around in the shirt to ensure it allows for easy movement
If there are pockets, make sure they are placed comfortably and don’t bulge out awkwardly
Check the collar for proper fit and comfort around your neck
Please take a look at the length of the shirt, ensuring it falls at a flattering spot on your body

Bonus Tips for Professional Results:

Use Quality Fabric: The fabric you choose will significantly impact the final look and feel of your shirt. Invest in quality material that’s easy to work with.
Take Your Time: Don’t rush the process. Each step, from creating the pattern to sewing the shirt, plays a role in making a high-quality garment.
Experiment with Different Fabrics: Try using different types of fabric, such as denim or linen, to create shirts for different occasions.
Learn from Mistakes: Don’t be afraid to make mistakes. Sewing is a skill that improves with each project.

By focusing on quality techniques and staying patient, you can sew a shirt that fits perfectly and looks great.

Conclusion: Mastering the Art of Sewing a Shirt

Now that you know how to sew a shirt, you can experiment with different fabrics, designs, and patterns to create unique shirts that reflect your style. With practice and patience, you’ll improve your sewing skills like sewing a hole, shorten the shirt, and gain confidence in creating other garments as well.