How to Sew a Shirt: step-by-step

The talent to sew your shirt is a skill that pays dividends and contributes to custom fashion, self-sufficiency, and the happiness of creation. Whether you’re a learner about to board on your first sewing project or a seasoned needleworker looking to refine your technique, making a shirt from scratch can be a pleasurable challenge. This guide walks you through each step, from drafting your pattern to stitching the last seams. Making your shirt might seem complex, but it’s an attainable goal with patience and practice. Let’s thread our needles, prepare our fabrics, and embark on a ride to create the perfect handmade shirt.

How to Sew A Shirt Step By Step

1.  Creating the Perfect Pattern

Find A Shirt That Fits Well

Select a t-shirt from your clothing that you love the fit of. This will be the base of your custom pattern. Make sure the shirt is ironed and laid flat before measuring.

Fold the Shirt in Half

Lay the shirt flat and fold it half lengthways, ensuring the front faces you. Smooth out any folds or creases. This will be the starting point for drafting your pattern.

Pin Along the Back Outline

On the back side, securely pin along the seams to keep the shape complete while you trace.

Measure and Mark Using a tape measure, start at the edge of the collar and measure down the centre back of your shirt to the end border. Note this is the dimension that will be used as a reference later. Measure from one shoulder seam across the chest to where you want your new shirt’s side seam to end

Trace the Outline

Using tracing paper and pencil, trace the outline of the back piece, capturing the shoulders, neckline, and sides accurately.

Pin Along the Front Outline

Flip to the front side, ensuring to include details like the button stand or any darts if they exist.

Trace the Outline

Again, trace the front piece’s details onto your tracing paper. For men’s shirts, capture the curve at the bottom hem.

Pin and Trace Around the Sleeve

Remove a sleeve and lay it flat to trace. Take note of any pleats or gathers that need to be replicated.

Add Seam Allowances to Each Piece

Add at least 5/8 inch around all sides of the pieces for seam allowances unless you plan to use a serger, which requires less.

Mark the Pieces

Label each part of your pattern pieces – back, front right, front left, and sleeve – to avoid confusion during cutting and sewing.

Cut and Match the Pieces

Carefully cut out your pattern pieces and cross-check them against each other to ensure they’ll line up when sewn.

2.  Preparing the Material

Choose An Appropriate Material

Your high-quality of fabric will reduce both the difficulty of sewing and the final right and drape of the shirt. Cotton is often used for its adaptability and well-being. For beginners, choose a material with a medium weight and a simple weave.

Wash the Fabric

Pre-wash your chosen fabric to pre-shrink it, preventing future distortions in your finished shirt.

Cut the Pattern Pieces Out

Pin your pattern pieces to the fabric and cut with precision. Ensure to note notches and darts that will assist in assembling the pieces.

3.  Preparing the Ribbing

Cut A Length of Ribbing for the Collar

The ribbing adds structure and ease to the collar. Measure your neckline and cut a size of ribbing to match.

• Ribbing is a stretchy and durable fabric commonly used to finish the edges of garments.
• It can be made with various materials, such as cotton, wool, or synthetic fibres.
• When choosing ribbing for your collar, consider the weight and texture of your main fabric to ensure a cohesive look.
• Measure your neckline accurately using a flexible measuring tape.

Fold and Press the Ribbing

Fold the ribbing lengthways and wrong sides, and press with an iron to create a crisp edge.

• Fold the ribbing in half with the wrong sides together.
• Place the folded edge along the raw edge of your fabric.
• Pin or clip the ribbing to keep it in place.
• Sew along the raw edges, using a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch to secure the ribbing to your fabric.

Stitch the Ribbing Closed

Stitch the minor sides of the ribbing together to form a ring that fits the neckline.

• Use a sewing machine or hand-sew the ribbing together with a straight stitch.
• Make sure to line up the edges of the ribbing evenly before stitching.
• Trim any excess fabric and press open the seam for a clean finish.
• Fold the loop in half, with the wrong sides facing each other, and press to create a centre crease.

4.  Sewing the Shirt

Pin the Body Pieces Together

With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, pin the back and front body pieces at the shoulders.

Sew the Shoulders

By a conventional stitch, join the front and back pieces at the shoulder seams.

• Begin by aligning the shoulder seams of the front and back pieces with the right sides together.
• Pin or use fabric clips to secure the two pieces in place.
• Sew using a straight stitch, starting at one end and ending at the other.
• Use a seam allowance of ⅝ inch (1.6 cm) unless specified in your pattern instructions.

Pin the Ribbing to the Neckline

Match the edges of the ribbing to the neckline, stretching slightly and evenly to fit, and pin securely.

• Use a ruler to measure the neckline length and cut the ribbing accordingly.
• Fold the ribbing in half lengthwise and press with an iron.
• Pin one end of the ribbing to the center back neck position on the fabric, aligning it with the raw edge.
• Begin pinning from one side, slightly stretching the ribbing as you go, and pinning it to the fabric next to the neckline edge.
• Continue pinning all around the neckline, evenly distributing any excess fabric.
• When you reach the end, overlap the edges of the ribbing by about 1 inch and cut off any extra length.

Stitch the Ribbing

Sew the ribbing to the neckline, ensuring to stretch the ribbing, not the shirt material, as you go.

• Align the ribbing along the neckline with the right sides together.
• Pin or use clips to hold the ribbing in place.
• Start sewing at one shoulder seam and work your way around the neckline.
• Use a stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch to secure the ribbing.

Pin the Sleeves to the Armholes

Array the sleeves to the armholes and right sides together and pin, giving attention to the marks and seams.

• Ensure the shoulder seam lines up with the shoulder seam of the garment.
• Pin from the top of the sleeve down to the bottom, easing in any excess fabric as you go.
• Repeat this process for both sleeves.
• Once all pins are in place, try on the garment to check for proper fit and adjust as needed.

Sew the Sleeves

Attach the sleeves with a straight or slight zigzag stitch to allow movement.

• Be sure to match the sleeve’s underarm seam with the shirt’s side seam.
• Ease any excess fabric along the sleeve cap to prevent bunching.
• Use pins or clips to secure the sleeve in place before sewing.
• Sew from the top edge down towards the cuff, careful not to catch any other garment parts in the stitching.
• Press the seam allowance towards the sleeve once it is sewn in place.
• Finish the raw edges of the sleeve with a serger or zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
• Try on the garment before finishing the sleeves to check for proper fit and adjust as needed.

Stitch Down Both Sides

Start at the sleeve cuff, stitch down to the hem of the shirt, connecting the front and back pieces together.

• First, the shirt’s pieces should be aligned to ensure symmetry and proper sewing.
• Ensure you have the correct stitch length and width on your sewing machine before starting.
• Use pins or clips to hold the fabric in place while stitching.
• Start at the sleeve cuff and stitch down towards the hem, making sure to stay as close to the edge of the fabric as possible.
• Use backstitching at the beginning and end of your seam to secure it in place.
• Repeat this process on both sides of the shirt, making sure to line up the front and back pieces correctly.
• After stitching down both sides, trim any excess threads and give the shirt a final press with an iron. This will help create a hard, proficient appearance.
• If desired, you can also finish the raw edges of the seam with a serger or zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
• Make any necessary adjustments to ensure that the shirt fits properly before moving on to the next step in your sewing project.
• Once you have completed stitching down both sides, you can move on to hemming the bottom of the shirt. This can be completed with a simple double-fold or rolled hem for a more elegant finish.

Fold and Sew a Bottom Hem

Fold up the bottom edge of the shirt twice to encase the raw edge, then topstitch close to the folded edge.

• Preparing your shirt for hemming:

• • Start by placing your shirt flat on a fresh, flat surface.
  • Flat out any wrinkles or folds in the fabric.
  • Make sure all seams are aligned and straight.
  • If needed, iron the bottom edge of the shirt to create a crisp fold line.
• Measuring and marking your hemline:
  • Decide on the desired length of your shirt.
  • Measure and mark this length from the bottom edge of the shirt.
  • Use a ruler or determining tape to confirm correctness.
  • Folding and pinning:
  • Fold up the bottom edge of the shirt by the desired hem length.
  • Pin in place along the hemline, ensuring the fabric is flat and smooth.
  • Double-check for any wrinkles or uneven edges before sewing.
• Sewing the hem:
  • Using a straight stitch, sew close to the folded edge of the hemline.
  • Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the stitches in place.
  • Remove pins as you sew.
  • Tips for a professional

Bonus

How to Sew a Shirt Collar

Fold and Sew Sleeve Hems

Repeat the hemming process on the sleeves, folding the raw edge twice for a neat finish.

• Ensure that the sleeve hem is straight and even before folding.
• Use pins to safe the doubled edges in place.
• Adjust the fold width according to your desired hem width.
• Press the folded edge with an iron for a crisp finish.
• Sew along the edge of the fold, making sure to backstitch at both ends for durability.
• Trim any excess threads and remove the pins after sewing.
• Repeat on both sleeves for a uniform look.

Iron the Seams

Use an iron to press all seams flat. This helps to shape the shirt and gives it a professional finish.

• Start by pressing a clean cloth over the seam to protect the fabric from direct heat.
• Use the appropriate heat setting on your iron based on the type of fabric you are working with.
• Hold the iron over the seam and press down firmly, moving in a back-and-forth motion along the entire seam length.
• Be careful not to stretch the fabric while pressing, as this can cause uneven seams and affect the overall fit of the shirt.
• If there are any stubborn wrinkles or creases, use a steam setting on your iron or spray some water onto the seam before pressing again.
• Once all seams have been pressed, turn the shirt inside out and press from the wrong side.

Try On the Shirt

Before making the final touches, try on the shirt. Check for fit and comfort, adjusting if needed.

• Make sure the shirt is the right size and fits comfortably
• Check that the sleeves are not too long or too short
• Adjust any buttons if they feel tight or loose
• Move around in the shirt to ensure it allows for easy movement
• If there are pockets, make sure they are placed comfortably and don’t bulge out awkwardly
• Check the collar for proper fit and comfort around your neck
• Please take a look at the length of the shirt, ensuring it falls at a flattering spot on your body

Conclusion

You have learned the basics of making a shirt from scratch, incorporating foundational skills to serve you to sew a sweatshirt. By accepting the above steps you will learn how to sew a shirt. Remember, precision, patience, and practice are the secrets to successful sewing. With time, you’ll gain efficiency and the ability to experiment with more advanced designs and materials.